martes, 19 de enero de 2010

Tanzer - The Best New Wines of Argentina

2009 Susana Balbo Torrontes Crios de Susana Balbo Salta

($15) Pale, bright straw-yellow. Pure, floral aromas of citrus blossom, licorice and mint. Juicy, intensely flavored and fresh, with flavors similar to the aromas. Offers unusual intensity for torrontes, with harmonious acidity giving it a firm shape. Finishes with very good length and verve. Always an excellent torrontes.

90

2009 Susana Balbo Rose of Malbec Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza

($12) Pale, bright red. Strawberry aroma complicated by tobacco, iron and tree bark. Supple and easygoing, with the texture and weight of a red wine, but good acid cut gives clarity and lift to the middle palate. Finishes supple and persistent. A very attractive rose. (Incidentally, my two bottles of the 2009 Crios chardonnay showed some off aromas that I might have blamed on bad corks except for the fact that they were sealed with screwcaps.)

2008 Susana Balbo Syrah/Bonarda Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza

($15; a 50/50 blend) Bright ruby-red. Ripe aromas of smoke and licorice. Offers good texture but comes off as a bit dry and rustic, with flavors of currant, chocolate and smoke and serious, slightly drying tannins. Doesn't quite come alive.

87

2008 Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza

($15) Good deep red. Black cherry, blackberry, licorice, pepper and graphite on the nose. Good lift and intensity to the black fruit flavors; I find this more precise and lively than the 2007 bottling. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins that showed a slightly dryness with air.

2009 Susana Balbo Rose of Malbec Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza

($15) Saturated, bright red-ruby. Pure aromas of strawberry jam, cassis and pepper, with a minty high note. Sweet, round and fruity, with good stuffing and ripeness; a step up in generosity of texture and richness from the 2008. Ripe tannins give support to the wine and extend its finish. An excellent value.

2008 Susana Balbo Malbec Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza

($15) Good deep red. Subdued but pure aromas of berries, smoke and spices. Sweet, ripe and pliant, with a firm edge of acidity giving shape to the flavors of dark berries, tart cherry, pepper and spices.

2008 Susana Balbo Malbec Susana Balbo Mendoza

($25) Saturated medium ruby. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry, blueberry and bitter chocolate. At once silky and vinous, with a lush texture to the flavors of dark berries, spices and chocolatey oak. Finishes with very suave tannins and lingering dark fruits. This showed a bit more stuffing than the BenMarco malbec tasted next to it-a wine that is also made by Susanna Balbo, albeit in a style generally intended for earlier consumption.

2007 Susana Balbo Nosotros Malbec Agrelo Mendoza

($90; 15% alcohol) Full medium ruby. Inviting aromas of black raspberry, bitter chocolate and sexy oak, with a hint of fruit confiture. Wonderfully sweet and densely packed, with a liqueur-like quality buffered by a surprising spine of acidity. This has an almost late-harvest quality and really stains the palate on the aftertaste. I miss the violet lift of the 2006 version, but this is very sexy juice.

92

2007 Susana Balbo Virtuoso Late Harvest Malbec Mendoza (500 ml)

($22; for 500 ml.) Deep ruby-red. High-toned aromas of sweet cherry, plum and redcurrant, complicated by chocolate-mint, mocha and flowers. Very sweet but given a juicy quality by bright balancing acidity. Not especially complex but the wine's sexy sugar/acid balance makes it very easy to drink. Finishes with lovely length and lift. (Vine Connections, Sausalito, CA)

89

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